This is a rough outline of how I make my Medieval Men's Hose. I plan on updating it when I can take pictures again (camera batteries refuse to charge). This hose pattern is made from three pieces. Each piece is generated by fitting against the wearer's leg and foot respectively.
- Take a basic leg measurement
- Hip to Heel _____
- Thigh _____
- Ankle _____
- Cut a rough pattern on the bias to match the leg measurement, add in extra room around the pattern. This will become your seam allowance and ease.
- Trace around the foot of the wearer adding S/A, and a point on the back of the heel. The point will come up the heel, and connect to the back seam about 2". Remember it is easier to trim off excess than it is to cut out a new piece so don't worry if it seems too big.
- Cut a square large enough to cover the foot from the toes up the ankle.
- Cut a slit up the center of the piece at the ankle. About 3"-4" enough for the leg to touch the floor without bunching at the ankle.
- Have your wearer, preferably in his braies, stand very still. Begin pinning the leg piece around the ankle fitting tightly up the leg. I use curved quilters safety pins, they are made of awesome and I recommend them to everyone.
- Mark the seam on both sides before unpinning. Trim off the excess fabric leaving your S/A.
- Take the square and insert the point as you would a gore (see Gore tutorial).
- Sew the back seam, leaving the bottom 2" open.
- Have the wearer put the leg piece back on and stand on the foot piece. Pin the two pieces together around the wearer's foot.
- Carefully take the hose piece off without unpinning, this is why I prefer the curved safety pins, no stabbity. If you cannot get the wearer's foot out of the hose you need to adjust the amount of ease in the heel.
- Once you have made sure that the wearer can remove the hose, trim the excess off of the foot pieces. Sew the foot seam.
- Finish all of your seams, and add a cord or eyelets to the top point, and viola you made hose.
I love these hose! So simple, step by step!
I was just experimenting with some graph paper and markers, and realized that hose made of checkered fabric would make beautiful diamonds straight down the center front of the leg. Hose from striped fabric might make a chevron pattern between the legs, but you'd have to rotate one pattern piece ninety degrees, which would be a big waste of fabric. But that's good, for nobles, right? To show off conspicuous consumption?
I've looked and cannot find any examples of patterned bias hose, though, which breaks my heart. It makes so much sense to me! How can they not have done this?
But I thought I'd pass the idea along, in case going off-script would be fun for you.
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