Monday, February 23, 2009

Alysaundre's Perfectly Pointed Gore Tutorial

Awhile back I posted my tutorial on how I insert gores into a slashed opening. I usually do this by hand since I could never get the point to align correctly, and it didn't look very good. So for years I have been telling anyone that would listen that the best way to insert gores is to sew it by hand, well now I am going to tell you different. Last month while attending the local sewing night I was taught a new method of inserting gores, and it is all done by machine, and it results in a perfect pointed gore

So without further ado here is Alysaundre's Perfectly Pointed Gore Technique:

On the left is the gore, and on the right we have our main fabric with the slash. Flip your gore upside down over slash Right Sides Together (RST).

Find the place where your seam allowances converge, and place your pin through the mark.Place the pin above your slash by 2-3 threads.

Pin through both layers.

Position your needle directly over your pin, where you marked the converging line of your seam allowance. Take Two stitches across the top of the gore.

You can hardly see those two tiny stitches, but they are there to be an anchor, and mark your starting/stopping point for your seam.

Pivot the gore to align the seam allowances.

Notice that the seam allowance doesn't match exactly at the top of the slash. This is OK! If you pull the gore over to make it match you will distort the grain of the gore and your point will get wonky.

Sew seam with your needle inserted into the two stitches you took earlier. Use the gore to align your seam allowance, not the slash.

See, nice and even from this side, just don't look at the back.

This part always feels weird to me. Match the other side of the gore and the slash RST.

Align the seam allowance from the bottom remembering thet the seam allowances won't align at the top

Again use the gore to align your seam allowance. I found it easier to sew bottom up on this pass. End your seam at the two stitches.

Now press your seam allowances from the gore out.

Now you have a perfect pointed gore!


A Life Long Scholar said...

How would you recommend finishing the seams sewn thusly? What does that finish do to that "perfect point"? Do you have photos of that step?

Morrghan O'Siodhachain said...

If I were hand finishing the Seam I would fold the seam allowance of the gore under and secure it with an overcast stitch. If I were sewing by machine I would serge or zig-zag each piece then attach them together. I do not have any pictures of the finished seam, but I'll try to get some. Thank you.

Diane said...

Just today I decided to clip the top of the gore a 1/2 inch above the stitched seam, fold 1/4 of it under, press and stitch down, then fold and press under the entire length of seam which I hand stitch in place with a simple, tiny running stitch (I have center front and back seams on my cotes as well as sides). I started hand stitching my seams on sleeves first and found I really like this method enough to finish the entire dress this way.

Unknown said...

I hope you don't mind a comment appearing on a post made so long ago, but thank you very much for posting this. I needed a little refresher on gores for a costuming project. Nicely done, thanks again!

Alice said...

Four-five years later, I thank you for the post. I have always avoided gores because my one and only try was a dismal failure. Thank you for your well written, easy to follow instructions. I will practice using your instructions.

Dark Star in the Morning said...

I have come back to this post so many times over the years to figure out how to set a gore into a new outfit. Please do not ever take this post down! So many of us are eternally grateful for it!

Unknown said...

Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial!

Morrghan O'Siodhachain said...

As long as blogsspot will keep hosting, I won’t take this down. I am so glad people are still referring back to this tutorial. It tickles my fancy that nearly a decade later it is still useful enough that people are commenting on it.

Morrghan O'Siodhachain said...


Morrghan O'Siodhachain said...

I hope it worked for you, thank you for taking the time to let me know it helped 😊

Jennifer T said...

Do you mind if I link to this post from my own blog? I'm documenting how *I* sew a 14th Century tunic, and inserting gores is always my nemesis!

Morrghan O'Siodhachain said...

Feel free, I am glad it is still useful.

Liz said...

Thanks so much for this. Wish I found this a week ago! :)

NancyO said...

Thank you for the great instructions! I successfully added two to the sides of my husbands fleece jacket. The result looks flawless!